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Toyota goes to war

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Autos Camayd in Holguin was among early Toyota dealers in the western hemisphere.

  I've saved my favourite for last. The Asian entry in our three-continent collection is a Toyota Land Cruiser FJ25V that in 1958 was Raúl Castro's staff vehicle in the Sierra Cristal. The man who now is president of Cuba was leading a force of 50 men to open the Second Front "Frank Pais," named for a young revolutionary martyr.
   Could this have been the first Toyota to see action in a guerilla war?


Land Cruiser FJ25V served Raúl Castro in Sierra Cristal fighting in 1958.
   The Land Cruiser name – clearly patterned on Land Rover – emerged in 1954 as Toyota formed plans to export its rudimentary BJ four-by-four utility vehicle. The BJ itself was clearly patterned on another famous four-by-four, the Willys Jeep. Toyota's version had entered full production one year earlier to supply Japan's National Safety Forces (previously the National Police Reserve) as well as the forestry department and utilities.
   According to one account, the first Land Cruisers were exported to Pakistan in 1954. Another source suggests exports didn't start until the 1955 introduction of the much-revised 20-series Land Cruiser, with Brazil and Saudi Arabia among the first destinations.
   Regardless of the date, early sales were modest. But Toyota pressed on and within a few years had added Burma, Australia and other nations to its markets. In 1958, the Land Rover brand arrived in the United States. Reportedly, just one was sold that year.
   Raúl Castro's Land Cruiser was reportedly seized from a sugar plantation owner. From the badges still attached to its hood, we know it was imported by Autos Camayd, a Chevrolet dealership in Holguin that had picked up a Toyota franchise – perhaps in early recognition of the Chevy-Toyota symmetries.
My old pickup: in the army now?
   It's a V model, meaning it originally had a fixed top. Like Fidel Castro's Land Cruiser Series 1 station wagon also on display at the Granma Memorial, the roof was removed at some point.
   The engine, if the original remains, is a gasoline inline six-cylinder rated at 105 horsepower. The manual transmission, unlike the Jeep gearbox, has no separate low range. The torque of the 3.9-litre Toyota straight six was felt sufficient to power the FJ25 through deep mud and heavy snow without the low gearing.
   Regardless of whether this was the first Toyota to serve a rebel army – and I think it could well have been – we know it was not the last. In the decades since the Cuban revolution, Toyota Hilux and Land Cruiser pickups, often with machine guns bolted to their beds, have carried militia forces in Africa, Asia, the Middle East. Insurgents like them for their strength and reliability and even for the big letters across the tailgate that have helped turn Toyota into a cult truck brand in so many places.
   In my day job, I wrote this column about the rebel Toyota phenomenon and the strange possibility that even a Toyota pickup I once owned may have been conscripted.
   Raúl Castro's Land Cruiser isn't as prized by collectors as the later FJ40 , and the purists are a bit sniffy about the quality of its restoration. Me, I'd take it in a heartbeat.
   But given its significance to Cuba, and its even larger place, perhaps, in auto history, it belongs in a museum. Which is exactly where it is.

Door frame identifies the Land Cruiser as a one-time hardtop.





Triple Plymouths

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My son Ren recently spent some time in Cuba. I didn't need to tell him to take plenty of car photos. For the next while I'll show some of the shots he has kindly shared from his trip, starting with this trio of Plymouths.

Plymouth, though perhaps branded as an export Dodge, from 1953 or 1954.
An upright and formal Plymouth sedan from 1949.
From the A pillar back, a '53 or '54 Plymouth. Front clip could be from a Dodge.

To see more of Ren Bostelaar's photos from Cuba and elsewhere, go to http://renbostelaar.tumblr.com.


Two Buicks and a Mercury

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In Havana, a 1956 Buick. Split windshield is easier to produce in Cuba.

Buick Special coupe from 1952, with some added Oldsmobile trim. 

Just right in red and white: Big four-door hardtop is a 1957 Mercury Monterey.

Little Britain

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   Considering its perilous state in the 1980s, the British auto industry has experienced a remarkable resurgence. Yes, its marques today are foreign-owned, but as Ronnie Schreiber reports at The Truth About Cars, Britain has not only become a net automotive exporter, but its industries are gaining a significant role in global supply chains.
  These three small soldiers, however, date from an earlier era of English export success. Again, the shots are from the viewfinder of Ren Bostelaar.

Perhaps on its own way to a rebirth is an Austin A90 Westminster. Marked with 'Austin of England' on its flanks, the A90 was built between 1954 and 1956.

Flush headlamps identify Ford Prefect as a 1949-53; headlamps on earlier Prefects were atop the fenders. The two-door version of this classically penned design was the Anglia
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A later Prefect 100E. More than 100,000 of this series were built by Ford Motor Co.'s British division between 1953 and 1959.

A painterly picture

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Chrysler products for foreign markets in the 1950s blended Dodge and Plymouth styling.
   The once bright, now soft shades of this 1954 Dodge or Plymouth sedan – it's a Chrysler export model, so it's probably a bit of both – remind me of the work of Montreal artist Susan Pepler.
   Cuba's old cars are a favourite subject of the "painterly realist," who brings to her canvases a careful attention to shape and detail, overlaid with impressionistic brush strokes that convey the movement of light and shadow under the Cuban sun.
   Several of Pepler's Cuba paintings are on display at Montreal's Le Meridien Versailles Hotel until June 30.

Days numbered for Cuba's colourful plates

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Possible prototypes of Cuba's new markers. Images: www.kubafotos.com 
   For a decade, Cuba's colour-coded licence plates have been a highly visible part of the island's automotive scene.
   But this month, Cuba begins the retirement of the system that allowed an observer – let's say a motorcycle cop tucked behind a "Patria O Muerte" billboard – to know from a distance whether a car was privately owned (yellow plate, good to ticket), rented by a tourist (red, even better) or operated by a government agency such as the all-powerful Ministry of the Interior (green, uh uh).
   Now, all privately owned cars, trucks and motorcycles will wear plates with black letters on a white background. State-owned vehicles get the same drab, two-colour scheme, but with a dab of blue on the side or in a corner.
   And this isn't the only change. Cuba's licence plates have long conformed to the rectangular, six-by-12-inch (155 by 305 millimetres) format used in much of the Western Hemisphere. The new plates, at 4.3 inches (110 mm) high and 16.5 inches (420 mm) wide, are closer in proportion to the strip-like registration plates of Europe.
   In pictures published at www.kubafotos.com, the new tags carry only a simple "CUBA" in vertical block letters to the left of the registration number. Those examples, however, could be prototypes; according to the country's Official Gazette, which announced details of the changes, the final products will bear both the country name and a "laser-printed image" image of the island.
   Why dump the multi-colour system in place since 2002? The Official Gazette says the change is intended to reflect government reorganization and economic reforms, as well as "new provisions on the exploitation, use and circulation of vehicles."
   Rather vague, that, but we might take it to mean that a country that has recently loosened the rules on private vehicle ownership and is encouraging more citizens to start businesses now desires a more egalitarian look for its vehicle population.
   Not that the licence hierarchy will disappear with the new alphanumeric registrations. The beginning letter will signify whether the vehicle is in government service (A for some departments, F for the army, M for the interior ministry), or belongs to a diplomatic mission (C,D,E), rental agency (T) or foreign national living in Cuba (K).
   Other letters, continuing the system of current plates, could identify the province in which the vehicle is registered.
   Additionally, vehicles in "protocol service" or used by foreign journalists will be required to display prominent, blue- or green-bordered decals on their windshields ("free press" in Cuba apparently meaning "freely visible").
   The switch is also a chance for authorities to root out the actual owners of vehicles, many of which have changed hands, sometimes several times over, without benefit of paperwork. Full documentation will be required before new plates are issued, the government warns.
   But why the Euro-style format? No explanation is offered, but we can guess that Cuba wants to thumb its nose at its big neighbour to the north by rejecting still another of its conventions.
   Given, however, that many Cuban drivers will be bolting their new plates to '53 Dodges, '57 Hudsons and other old, American-made iron, it could seem a rather hollow gesture.

Current private-ownership plate on a 1955 Oldsmobile.



See also:

Two at rest, one at work

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Chevy in mid-repair is a '52 Styleline; Olds is a '56 Holiday, or maybe a Super 88.

Call that a cab! Chevrolet truck from '53 or '53 collects passengers.

Memo to Mercedes: Miguel needs some help

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Miguel Llorente in Cuba.
   Miguel Llorente, the young adventurer who tracked down a Mercedes-Benz Gullwing and other exotic cars in Cuba, has had a close call in Colombia.
   Miguel was driving his Mercedes 300TD wagon, "Livingstone," on a mountain road when a truck rounded a corner in his lane. He swerved and his right wheels dropped into a concrete drainage channel. Then the beige wagon was slewing back across the roadway into a Kenworth 18-wheeler and down into a ditch, coming to rest on its roof atop a rainwater reservoir.
   Passersby pulled Miguel from the car and waited with him for an ambulance. After a short stay in hospital he still has back pain, but amazingly, he didn't break any bones or suffer other serious injuries.
   Livingstone? Not so lucky. The 30-year-old Mercedes in which Miguel set out from Kansas months ago is a mangled mess. Its inner structure held, however, and he credits that safety cage for saving him.
   The accident hasn't taken away our intrepid traveller's keen powers of observation, or his zest for writing. On his This European Life blog, he offers a compelling account of that day's events, telling us, for instance, about the Kenworth driver whose own quick yank of the wheel prevented a head-on collision that would have been worse yet, and who waited outside the hospital to know that Miguel was all right.
   But without money to replace Livingstone, Miguel fears his PanAm expedition may have reached an early end. He has approached Mercedes-Benz, hoping the manufacturer can somehow help him resume his trek to the tip of Argentina. Anything with a diesel under the hood and a three-pointed star above should do this good friend of the marque just fine.



See also:



Gullwing and a prayer
The young man and the 300SL
Watch it and weep

He met a Čezeta

Slide With The Tide

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   Where I grew up, grabbing the bumper of a passing car and hitching a ride along a snow-packed street was considered great, if rather risky, sport. Not half as risky, however, as a Havana hobby reported by Along the Malecón. No snow? Cubans will still find a way.



Another driver detained

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In Cuba, prepare to encounter a broad variety of fellow road-users.
     Elie Raffoul, a 41-year-old from Canada, appears to be the latest visitor to to learn about the potentially severe consequences of getting into a car accident in Cuba.
   The building contractor from Ottawa says authorities prevented him from leaving the island for nearly two weeks after his rental car collided with a motorcycle March 23 near the Cayo Santa Maria resort area on Cuba's north coast.
   Two weeks may not sound long compared with the three-month detainment of another Canadian, Cody LeCompte, in 2010, or the full year a woman identified only as "Anne," also from Canada, says she was forced to spend in Cuba after a February 2008 accident.
   But as Raffoul toldOttawa Citizen columnist Hugh Adami, the uncertainty about what was happening and how long he would have to remain on the island left him shaken.
   "I was scared. I was so scared," said Raffoul.
   He said he was driving to Santa Clara and trying to pass a donkey cart and a motorcycle when an oncoming car forced him to return to his lane. The motorcycle moved to give him room but then clipped the car's side mirror, sending rider Leonid Aquila Leon to the ground. Raffoul said he had been travelling at about 50 km/h.
   Aquila was treated at hospital for cuts and bruises to his face and arm and sent home the same day, said Raffoul, who later visited the motorcyclist and, he says, gave him $450 Cdn., even though Aquila told him he wasn't asking for money.
   Asking why he couldn't take his scheduled flight home on March 24, Raffoul ran into the usual language barriers and bureaucratic fog. He said he was informed he had to wait until doctors could determine the severity of Aquila's injuries, in case he required compensation. Whether that was true or the Cuban police were simply investigating at their standard slow pace, he was eventually told he could leave.
   Raffoul said his additional expenses, including the bill for two more weeks at his resort, reached $3,500. That's a fair chunk, especially for someone who is self-employed. Again, however, it's well short of the nearly $30,000 spent by the family of Cody LeCompte, the Simcoe, Ont., teenager who was at wheel when his rental car collided with a dump truck, injuring LeCompte and three others.
   And Anne, the Eastern Ontario woman who spent a year on the island following an accident in which two Cubans were killed, said she was $40,000 in debt and had lost the hair salon business she operated from her home because of the experience.
   Raffoul has visited Cuba five times, but says he will never go back. No es de extrañar. But you, if you go to Cuba, should you drive there? These previous posts might offer some guidance.

Driving in Cuba Reconsidered

10 Tips for Driving in Cuba

Leave the Driving to Them


The long wait of the law? Investigations can drag on for weeks.


Innocent as charged

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   Though a regular visitor to Cuba, Elie Raffoul says he was unaware of the risks of driving on the island. He's certainly aware of them now (see previous post).
   Canada's Foreign Affairs department has long advised its citizens not to drive in Cuba. Conditions there can be hazardous, it warns. Road signs are scarce, few routes are lit and "bicycles, pedestrians and horse-drawn carts use the middle of the road and do not readily give way to oncoming vehicles."
   All this can be true. But the Foreign Affairs website errs when it states that "the onus is on the driver (charged after an accident) to prove innocence" As I've written here before, Cuba is no different than many other countries in requiring that the burden of proof rest with the prosecution, not the defendant.
   How well this is applied in the Cuban court system (or indeed, the courts of other countries) could be another matter. Still, any discussion about the risks of foreign travel should be based on fact.

Airport police (with a rather tattered Geely CK patrol car): Onus is on authorities to prove in court that a person accused of a crime is guilty.



U.S. warns of driving risks in Cuba

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Two Americans jailed, five others cannot leave island, U.S. government says.
   It's not just Canadian visitors finding themselves in trouble with Cuban authorities because of traffic accidents on the island.
  According to the United States diplomatic mission in Havana, accidents involving U.S. citizens are on the rise. Two Americans were jailed recently because of driving offences, two others are under house arrest and three have been told they cannot leave Cuba, presumably while investigations continue.
   “We urge you to take extra safety precautions when driving to avoid problems during your stay in Cuba,” the mission warned Friday. See a Miami Herald report here and read this traffic and road safety advisory from the U.S. State Department.
   Canada remains the largest source of visitors to Cuba, but an increasing number of Americans are taking advantage of relaxed restrictions on travel to the island. Many are Cuban-American who would be more likely to take the wheel there than visitors from other countries.
   “Unconfirmed reports suggest that accidents involving motor vehicles are now the leading cause of accidental death in Cuba,” the warning said.
   It detailed problems ranging from poor, unlit roads to vehicles that lack turn signals, and said drivers in accidents can be jailed for up to 10 years.

Chryslers in Cuba

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Three more shots from Ren Bostelaar. He does seem drawn to Chrysler products!


Sky-themed Dodge is an export model from 1955.
This 1954 Chrysler is missing the chrome that would allow us to identify it by model.

A 1949 or '50 export Dodge or Plymouth, and no, that won't buff out. 


Thumping good '56 Rambler

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Inboard headlamps are just one of the '56 Rambler's distinctive styling cues.
  The owner of this 1956 Rambler Custom spends most of his day driving a a more modern Skoda Octavia Combi taxi cab.
   But that doesn't diminish his affection for the great grey-blue tank that carries him to and from his job.
   "That's mine – good car!" he announces after seeing me photographing the Rambler outside Juan Gualberto Gómez Airport near Matanzas.
   He opens the hood to reveal a four-cylinder Volga gasolina engine in place of the Rambler's original 200-cubic-inch Nash inline six-cylinder. At a steady 60 km/h, he says, the Volga-equipped Custom delivers seven or eight kilometres per litre – that's 17 to 19 miles per U.S. gallon or 20 to 23 per Imperial gallon.
   With its flat flanks, "basket handle" rear roof treatment and inboard-mounted headlamps, a cue from its Nash predecessor, the Rambler is distinctive. Not pretty, but distinctive. And this one is a solid example. Its panels are straight and most of its trim is in place. The owner tells me he has the chrome upper grille bezel at home and will be putting it back on.
   He knows the car is solid. He thumps the hood of a Skoda taxi parked in the next slot – not his Skoda taxi – and then strikes the Rambler's fender, watching to make sure I register the difference in tone.
   "Good car!" he repeats, and we both smile.

Basket handle is said to have inspired the rear roofline design.

Dash suggests this Custom originally had a much brighter exterior colour.

Chrome grille moulding will be reinstalled.

Four-cylinder gas engine came from a Russian-built Volga.

The Custom's proud custodian.









Harbour duty

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   CARISTAS friend Tony Robertson shares this image of an MGA in Havana. On behalf of fans the world over of the graceful roadster produced by the British Motor Corp. from 1955 to 1962, we thank him.

Photo by Tony Robertson. Used by permission.

Fiat Spider with a new tin top

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   Also from Tony Robertson are these shots of a Fiat 1100 TV Spider with hardtop roof that clearly was adapted from some other car. The Fiat looks rather awkward in side view, though no more awkward, really, than an 1100 with standard convertible top raised. Perhaps the roof is removable. The car would look fine without it!

To be a true Spider, this Fiat 1100 would need to lose the roof.
Photos by Tony Robertson. Used by permission.



See also:

Look What I Found on the Cuban Craigslist

Hey Lady, You're In My Way



The Hershey train

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Cuba's Hershey electric train runs between Matanzas and Havana.
   People advised me not to try it. It will be late or won't show up at all, one Cuban told me. Or it will break down midway through my journey and leave me stranded.
   I wasn't worried. If the Hershey electric train didn't happen to be running on the day I planned to take it, well, I could always try the next day. And if it broke down somewhere in the countryside, I knew that the Via Blanca highway was never more than a few kilometres to the north. I could hitch or hire a ride to Havana or back to Santa Cruz del Norte.
   In the next few entries, I'll tell you about my ride on the Hershey train.

Mind the gap: Concrete platforms are none too close to train doors.


The Hershey train II

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Pantograph assembly: Hershey Cuban Railway started with steam but soon went electric.
   My taxi driver collects me at 7 a.m. and soon we are at the Hershey Station, a long building with open sides and tiled roof.
   I join dozens of people already on the platforms, some awaiting the train I want to take to Havana, others the one coming from the other direction and heading west. Hershey is the only place with two lines of track where trains can pass; elsewhere there's just one line.
   The trains pull in within moments of each other, close to if not exactly at the scheduled 7:40 a.m. arrival time. Each is formed of two linked cars, their spindly pantograph frames reaching up like insect antennae to draw power from the overhead lines.
   It's easy to imagine the cars, windows dulled with grime, sides and even roofs scarred by rust, as the line's 1922 originals.
Spanish-built cars were a gift to Cuba.
   Milton Hershey, the American chocolate magnate, first visited Cuba in 1916, a time of sugar shortages because of the First World War. The opportunities were clear. He bought up plantations and small mills, and south of Santa Cruz del Norte laid out plans for a large sugar mill and town, known collectively in Cuba as a central.
   Hershey was an enlightened employer, and the town that bore his name would be much like the community he built for his workers in Pennsylvania. The residents had health care, a free school and recreational facilities, including the all-important baseball diamond.
   To carry more workers to the mill and its product to the ports of Havana and Matanzas, Hershey built a railroad. The first trains were powered by steam, but by 1922 they were being replaced with the new electric technology. Soon the Hershey Cuban Railway would have seven electric locomotives and 17 electric cars – its passenger service had quickly become popular – running on 135 kilometres of electrified main line and branches.
   Hershey's Cuban properties were sold to the Cuban Atlantic Sugar Co. in 1946. Following the communist takeover the town (though not the station) was renamed Camilo Cienfeugos after the revolutionary hero, and the mill kept pressing out sugar until 2002.
  The original U.S.-built Brill rail cars were repaired again and again and might still be in service had Spain not donated a fleet of used electric cars to Cuba in 1998. Some dated to 1944 – no wonder they look like antiques – but they were still a step up from their well-used predecessors.
   Literally.
   The floors of the Spanish cars were much higher than the Brills', requiring the installation of a raised platform at Hershey and concrete steps at other stops.





The Hershey train III

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The engineer is more interesting to watch than the scenery.
   We clatter into motion, swaying from side to side like a tired guajiro. From below, steel wheels thump acknowledgement of the welds in the rails, the tempo picking up as we gain speed. Even as I begin to contemplate the challenges of Cuban railway maintenance, however, we've already begun to slow for the next station.
   It will be like this all the way to Havana. Never do we reach a pace that could seem imprudent for these rough old cars and the wavy tracks.
   The country stations are no more than concrete huts and narrow staircases. People get on, ride for a stop or two and disembark. It's very much a local service.

Well-fitted cars offer window into an earlier era of train travel.
   I'm not sure what they pay for their short trips, but it couldn't be much. I give the conductor a 2 CUC coin for my longer ride and he hands me 60 centavos in change, plus a Ferrocarriles de Cuba receipt with several inked notations and a ticket in which he has punched nine holes. I'm travelling segunda clase, I notice.
     There may not be a primara clase on the Hershey train, but there is a faded elegance in the cabin. Curved metal banding frames the windows. Dark wood panels separate facing rows of seats beneath the high, vaulted ceiling. Passenger spacing is generous.
   I sit at the front near the open door to the driver's cabin, where I can watch the engineer work the antique controls. This is more interesting than the scrubby pastures and occasional palms moving past our dusty windows.
   Around me, mothers with children on their laps chat quietly. Other passengers lean against the walls near the cabin doors, awaiting their stops. And still others, occupying no doubt the same seats they always occupy, surrender to the rhythm and routine, and close their eyes and doze.

Regular passengers take the opportunity to nap.



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